Eurotrip 2009 Part 3: Neuschwanstein and Innsbruck

This is the third part of my Eurotrip 2009 Revisited series, a special edition of sorts in which I have divided the original post into smaller parts while incorporating minor copy edits and a few new (and reprocessed) images.

Flash Forward: Innsbruck, Austria

After spending our last night in Munich, we had a (gasp) 6:15 wakeup call the next morning, though I actually awoke on my own at 5:45. Following breakfast we were on the road to Neuschwanstein, the fairy tale castle of King Ludwig II. The Sleeping Beauty castle of Disneyland was based on Neuschwanstein . . . and for you Spaceballs fans, it was also used as Castle Druidia in that film.

Neuschwanstein from down below
Hohenschwangau Castle, Ludwig’s childhood home, located beneath Neuschwanstein

The long climb to the top of the mountain where Neuschwanstein sits was much easier for me than it had been two years ago when I was carrying around 30 extra pounds. We toured the amazing inside of the castle (Ludwig was like an overgrown child; all of his rooms were extravagantly themed on Wagner operas, and he even had an indoor cave built just outside his bedroom). Unfortunately, they don’t let you take any pictures inside (I tried to sneak a few pics from under my jacket but they didn’t come out), so here’s an exterior shot of the valley taken from the castle:

One of my favorite scenes at Neuschwanstein

After the tour we made our way to the Marienbrücke, a bridge over a gorge that normally provides a stunning view of the castle, but unfortunately the entire side of the castle was covered in scaffolding. Luckily, I had gotten great pictures when I was here in 2007, so it wasn’t a huge loss.

The Marienbrücke
Neuschwanstein unfortunately covered in scaffolding

Amber and I crossed the bridge and began climbing the path to the top of the mountain, during which I took my obligatory Karate Kid photo:

The obligatory Karate Kid pose

After a short climb we decided to make our way back, but were separated from the rest of the group, so we started walking back down the mountain on our own. We came to a fork, at which a sign seemed to indicate that we could get to the bottom taking either path, but one was shorter than the other. We took the short path, which was steeper than the traditional path.

About halfway down we reached a dead-end, so we climbed back up to an intersection where the path appeared to continue on down the hill, but we didn’t want to take anymore chances and wind up late for the bus, so we climbed all the way back up the steep path to the original fork, an arduous climb with the clock ticking—Amber had never heard me curse so much in her life 🙂

Eventually we made it back to the original path on which we had climbed up to the castle, but way too late for lunch, so I grabbed a Bavarian hamburger and munched it on the way down. We made it back to the bus just in time, putting a little scare into Uncle Kipp, but as it turned out, the leader of the NY group was 15 minutes late, so we would have been fine.

Our next stop was the Wieskirche (also known as the church in the meadow). Here’s one shot of its amazing interior:

Wieskirche interior
The meadow that gives the Wieskirche its nickname

Following that we stopped in Oberammergau, a town famous for its Passion Play, as well as its wood carvings and painted buildings. I was still worn out from our mountain experience, so I just explored the town briefly before sitting down with a radler at an outdoor cafe, relaxing, and enjoying the view:

Alps in Oberammergau

We eventually arrived at our hotel in Innsbruck, Austria around 6pm. My room had a nice view of the alps:

View from my Innsbruck hotel room
View from an Innsbruck street
(McDonald’s truly is everywhere)

After unpacking and eating a hotel-provided pork dinner, we went on a brief walking tour. The kids wanted to find a nightclub, so Uncle Kipp befriended a group of local kids and had them lead us to a bar. A few of the girls did not want to stay, so I led them home, which was fine with me because the smoke in the bar was disgusting. Everyone who stayed at the bar apparently had a great time, but as my uncle is fond of saying: “To each their own.” After a very long day, I slept like a log for most of the night.

The next morning we went on another brief walking tour, culminating in a visit to a church with cool statues:

Innsbruck church statues

After that I did a little shopping with Amber, as well as Sam and her grandmother. I picked up another t-shirt (which I would only get one use out of because it shrank to nearly a half-shirt after I washed it). This was the same store where I bought my nephew Jamie’s t-shirt, so I hope his fared better than mine did.

Amber and me trying on some hats

A little later I bought a small bottle of absinthe, just to see what all the fuss was about. Amber and I then walked down to the river, where we got some great photos:

View of Alps from Innsbruck
Alps over river in Innsbruck
Innsbruck historical district at riverside

We then ate lunch at an outdoor cafe where I had a good spaghetti bolognese (even though I was enjoying the German food, I couldn’t go a whole week without eating Italian :-)).

Following lunch we hopped on the bus for a very long drive to Switzerland, which will be covered in the next installment.

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Eurotrip 2011: The Video

I thought I’d kick off the new Videos section of this blog with the very first video I made from one of my trips.  This video covers most of my month in Europe in 2011, including visits to Italy, Switzerland, and Croatia.

This video is nearly 18 minutes long, so I’ll understand if you don’t want to sit through the whole thing :-), but it is accompanied by a couple of pleasant pieces from Holst’s The Planets.

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Eurotrip 2009 Part 2: Munich

This is the second part of my Eurotrip 2009 Revisited series, a special edition of sorts in which I have divided the original post into smaller parts while incorporating minor copy edits and a few new (and reprocessed) images.

Flash Forward: Nymphenburg Palace in Munich

Soon after our adventures in Rothenburg we left for the bus ride to Munich. On the way we stopped at two more medieval towns that also had city walls like Rothenberg. Our first stop was Dinkelsburg, a charming town that looks like it jumped right out of the pages of a storybook.

Dinkelsburg
Dinkelsburg street

Our next stop was Nordlingen. For film buffs, this is the town that can be seen from the glass elevator at the end of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory (most of the movie was actually filmed in Munich). I did not know this during the time I was there, though, or I might have taken more pictures (I didn’t snap many photos in this town because it looks so similar to Dinkelsburg and Rothenburg).

Nordlingen city wall

Later that day we arrived at our Munich hotel. The room card was needed to activate both the elevator and the electricity in my room, which I thought was an interesting feature. We had some free time to get settled in before leaving that night for the Augustiner restaurant. What was supposed to be a 15 minute walk turned out to be a half-hour walk, and by the time we got there people were starving (in retrospect, complaining about a 30-minute walk seems a bit silly in light of all the walking I did last year on the Inca Trail :-)).

Dinner began with a basket of pretzels (which you see more often in Munich than bread). The dinner was good, pork chops and spaetzle. I also ordered a radler (beer mixed with lemon soda). It’s a tasty alternative to beer and was my drink of choice for most of the trip.

On the way home that night we went to the Augustiner beer garden, where I had my first Mas beer of the week: a one-liter beer in a giant mug. Uncle Kipp had bought Amber her first beer earlier in the day (a radler), but she had not tried real beer yet, so I let her taste mine, to predictable results:

Amber’s first taste of real beer

A couple of German guys (who we thought worked there) came over and talked a few people from our group into going up on stage to dance and sing. The kids who went up soon discovered the truth when a real employee yelled at them. Soon after we headed back to the hotel. Exhausted from a general lack of sleep over the first couple of days of the trip, I fell asleep pretty easily a little after midnight, though I woke up a couple of times during the night.

The next morning for breakfast I had some outstanding croissants with tasty European butter, as well as a good chocolate-frosted pound cake. That day we went on a bus tour of Munich with the same guide that we had two years ago. Our first stop was Nymphenburg Palace:

I snapped this quick photo of Nymphenburg Palace from the bus.
Gotta love Photoshop’s spot healing tool for getting rid of window reflections.
The gardens behind Nymphenburg palace

While inside, I briefly leaned against one of the pillars in the picture below to take a photo of the ceiling mural, which was a no-no. A little old lady came over to yell at me, then proceeded to follow me around for the rest of the tour.

Nymphenburg interior

After finishing our tour of the palace, we hopped back on the bus and stopped by the Eisbach river to watch surfers ride the rough waters where the river forms a standing wave.

Surfer on the Eisbach in Munich

Our tour ended in the town square known as the Marienplatz, where we watched the Glockenspiel in action.

Glockenspiel with statue in foreground

Our group then split up and I bought Amber lunch for her birthday—we ate with Sam and her grandmother. Like the previous evening, we were supplied with a basket of pretzels. However, unlike the previous evening, they charged us for them—and neglected to mention this until after we had already eaten them. That was kind of annoying, but what are you going to do? These things happen when you travel. The lunch was good anyway: sausage and potato salad.

That afternoon I skipped the group excursion to the Dachau concentration camp since I had already seen it two years ago, choosing instead to walk to the famed English Garden (Munich’s version of Central Park). It’s a beautiful oasis in the middle of the city complete with mini waterfalls and babbling brooks.

Mini waterfall in the English Garden

Before going I bought a t-shirt (the first of many I would buy on this trip because the April weather was much warmer than I was expecting and I had mostly packed heavy clothes) and changed into the only pair of shorts I brought. By the time I got to the English Garden I realized it had taken me an hour to walk there, and it would take me another half hour to walk to the beer garden at the back of it. While in the park I discovered firsthand how much less prudish Europeans are than Americans when I saw a naked guy running around playing Frisbee with himself. There were tons of people there; including children, but nobody cared. It was certainly a jarring site for someone who grew up in a country that freaked out over a Super Bowl wardrobe malfunction.

I made my way to the back of the park, first stopping at a gazebo on a hill overlooking the entire park with the city line in the background:

Munich city line behind the English Garden

I then continued on to the beer garden, at the center of which stands a large Chinese pagoda:

Chinese pagoda and beer garden in the English Garden

I sat down and drank a Radler and ate a giant donut type of pastry, soaking in the beautiful sunny day. I also took this time to call Jen at work. On my way out of the park I stopped and had a chocolate gelato (I was pigging out on this trip). A German man then asked me to take a picture of his family. We had a brief conversation, during which he sort of made fun of me for wearing an Oktoberfest shirt in the spring, but it was good-natured ribbing.

While walking back through the city, I saw an accident happen in front of me in which a motorcycle wiped out. The guy was okay; he had jumped off the bike. Interestingly, we had also seen a motorcycle accident on the trip two years ago.

When I got back to the hotel I stopped and spent a few minutes on the pay-per-minute internet computer to check email (this was back before I had a cell phone or kindle capable of keeping me connected abroad) . . . facebook was down so I couldn’t check that (perish the thought!). I then went to Uncle Kipp’s room and we chatted for a while only to realize that we had lost track of time and were late for the bus that was taking us to dinner. Everyone took turns being late on this trip, today was ours–and Amber now had some ammunition to fire back at Uncle Kipp. 😉

Dinner that night was roast chicken and fries, and once again we fell victim to the pretzel bait and switch, only this time it was more egregious because our dinners were supposed to be all inclusive except for drinks (the pretzels at the previous day’s dinner had been free). It wasn’t a big deal for me, but many of the students were there on limited budgets and were not expecting to have to pay money toward their dinners.

For dessert, Uncle Kipp gave Amber a very good birthday cake that our table shared. Later that night we went to the famed Hofbrauhaus for drinks.

Amber & me with Mas beers at the Hofbrauhaus

At one point during the evening I discovered that German women have no problem coming into the bathroom to clean while you are still using the facilities. Anyway, we got home that night a little after 11. We had a 6:15 wakeup call the next morning to leave for Innsbruck, Austria. Along the way we would be stopping at King Ludwig II’s fairy tale castle, Neuschwanstein, and a few other places. Those events will be covered in the next installment.

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Haiku of the Day

Observations on a walk outside today inspired me to share this haiku, which is actually part of a larger haibun I wrote in college:

Torrential downpour—
sidewalk is crowded with worms
escaping the flood.

Although I now know that flooding is not the reason that worms surface, I still like the imagery. 🙂

Supermoon

I decided to add a Photography section to this blog for showcasing some of my favorite photos.  I’m not a professional by any stretch of the imagination, but I love to take pictures, and some of them actually come out not terrible. 🙂

In honor of the arrival of Comet Pan-STARRS, which I hope to have the opportunity to photograph over the next week, I thought I’d kick things off with an astronomy-themed photo: the supermoon from March of 2011, photographed in my front yard with my Panasonic FZ-40.  It does a pretty good job for a non-DSLR camera.

Netx up: Pan-STARRS [fingers crossed], and in November: ISON!

The Vintage Reel Award

I would like to thank Alli from The Vintage Postcard for honoring me with a Vintage Reel Award, which she created as a way of recognizing fellow bloggers in the blogging community.  It’s always nice to get a shout-out from one of my peers, and the award is a great way to encourage interaction among bloggers who share common interests.

The Vintage Reel Award is designed for bloggers to look back and recall old, valuable memories, perhaps ones that shaped who they are today and in particular, their passion for travel. Steps upon accepting the Vintage Reel Award:

1. Upload an old photo of yourself and describe a story behind it
2. Answer the 4 questions
3. Nominate 10 other nominees

1. My Old Photo

This picture of me posing with my balalaika was taken circa 1979. I chose this one because it foreshadows both my love for music and my passion for travel, and also because it ties in to my third response below.

My Uncle Kipp brought this back from one of his many trips to Russia.  I loved it and played it all the time–until, being the klutzy kid that I was, I broke it.  If I recall, the neck snapped in half, but I don’t even remember how it happened.  It would not be my last mishap with a gift from my uncle.  One year he gave me an authentic Swiss army knife, which my parents promptly confiscated after I sliced my thumb open. But I still have that knife and frequently make use of it (it came in handy during my hike of the Inca Trail last year).

Overall, what this photo represents to me is how, from a young age, my uncle made me aware of a world beyond the one outside my front door.  It wouldn’t be until my 36th year on this planet that I would finally make my first trip overseas, but the seeds were planted way back then.

2. My responses

What is your favourite childhood memory?

I had a wonderful childhood so it’s tough to pick just one memory, though standouts include road trips with my family and summers spent camping. However, in keeping with the theme of travel and adventure, I’d like to recount one summer afternoon from my childhood in Clayton, NJ when my friends and I decided to explore the forest across the street from my house.  We had ventured into those woods before, but never far.  This time we were determined to keep going all the way to the end, wherever that may be.

There was no path to follow so we just chose a general direction and off we went, forging our way into the unknown.  We met every challenge that crossed our path, including a wide stream that we traversed by climbing a tree that was bent over the stream. Imagining ourselves as cool survivalists, we even drank from a running stream that one of us claimed was clean because the water was running over rocks–lord knows what pathogens I picked up that day!

Eventually, after an all-day adventure, the end of the forest was in sight.  We had triumphed, just like all of those famous explorers who had discovered new worlds and ancient civilizations. Our own great discovery awaited to be added to the annals of history. And so we emerged–onto Clayton Avenue, a road that was about a 15-minute walk from my house. Our daylong trek had not exactly resulted in the discovery of Machu Picchu, but that wasn’t the point. I realized for the first time that the journey is often greater than the destination. I look back on that day now with a kind of Stand By Me fondness, and I’m reminded of the final line of that film, which rings largely true: “I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was twelve. Jesus, does anyone?”

Describe how you were as a child and how you are now. Are you pretty much the same in terms of what excites you and interests you?

As I approach my 42nd birthday I’m every bit the kid at heart I was at 12–and my wife might even say I’m still at the same level of maturity. 🙂  Most of what moved me then still moves me now: Star Wars, dinosaurs, outer space, history, music, sports, nature, the wonders of the world, a good book, film, or TV show that takes me to another world . . . did I mention Star Wars?

Who is that person in your life that you couldn’t live without?

Everyone in my life is extremely important to me.  From my immediate family to my aunts, uncles, and cousins, they all enrich my life in unique ways and I could never imagine living without them.  But in keeping with the travel theme of this post, I want to give special recognition to the two people who are most responsible for making my travel dreams a reality:

My wife Jen makes everything possible. Not only has she always been there for me, but she is fully supportive of my desire to see the world even though she doesn’t like to fly or travel herself. I’m very lucky to have a spouse who is okay with me going on these trips by myself, including my epic 2011 trip to Europe in which I was gone for a month! And she didn’t bat an eye when I made plans for my 2009 European trip while still looking for a job–she’s a keeper 😉

I also have to give a shout-out to my Uncle Kipp, a pro traveler if ever there was one, who introduced me to traveling and gave me the confidence to travel alone in foreign countries, culminating in my first ever solo overseas flight to Peru last year.  He has been my travel buddy for all four of my overseas trips.

Without these two people in my life, the closest I would ever have gotten to the wonders of Europe and South America would have been via my television set.

What are your major barriers to travel that you overcome in order to continue traveling? (Money, time, work, etc)

I think time is always the biggest issue given how few vacation days the average full-time employee gets here in the States in comparison to our counterparts in many other countries. An epic trip like I took to Peru last year uses up the majority of my paid time off, and the month-long trip I took to Europe in 2011 would not even be possible now (I had been a contract worker during that time, so I was able to take over a month off without pay).

The other barrier is my disdain for air travel. I’m not afraid of flying but I hate the hassle of it, so I have to psyche myself up for that portion of any trip. When I travel domestically, I will almost always choose driving over flying, even if my destination is a thousand miles away. I’ve driven from my home in New Jersey to Orlando (twice), Niagara Falls in Canada, Bar Harbor all the way near the top of Maine, and to the Outer Banks and Smoky Mountains of North Carolina. At some point in my life I would like to do a drive across the entire country, and even the multiple days it would take to accomplish that would be less of a hassle than flying.

3. My Nominees

This will have to remain a work in progress as I am still fairly new to interacting with my peers in the travel blogging community and thus have not yet built up a large base of regularly visited sites. But I fully intend to visit the blogs of everyone who has visited mine. I’ve been very impressed with the blogs I’ve visited thus far in terms of their passion for travel and the quality of the writing and photography. I can’t wait to see what the rest have in store for me.  In the meantime, I’d like to point all of you back to The Vintage Postcard, an inspiring blog that should be a regular destination for all lovers of travel.

Wildwood

Author’s Note: This is a slightly modified version of a poem I wrote in the early 1990’s (which explains some of the dated references) and published in Avant, the literary magazine of Rowan University.

Wildwood

Suntanners sizzled
beneath a blazing blue sky…
Screams
from the Sea Serpent seared my ears…
I kissed Kayla’s lips as we caressed
in the sand, singing a lover’s song…

At night we walked
the boards, our hands a single limb,
the wood creaking beneath our feet,
Dracula’s Castle’s eerie organ
… echoing …
in our ears…

An abundance of carnival games beckoned
my business and I finally gave in,
blowing twenty bucks on a ten-buck teddy bear
for Kayla…

By the amateur singing studio
a group gathered to guffaw
at a girl’s butchering
of Mariah Carey…

Across the boardwalk sat the
Old Fashioned Photo Booth
where Kayla and I
were once Bonnie and Clyde…

We stopped at Mack’s and I
salivated
as my nose picked up
the scent of scorching pizza.
The cheese, still boiling
when I took my first bite,
stuck to and stung my tongue
while the excess oil
… oozed …
out the corners of my mouth…

We washed the pizza down with a Lime Ricky
and indulged in some chocolate fudge
before suddenly jumping to avoid
a yellow monster shouting at us to
watch the tram car, please…

As the night grew old
the piers closed and the people departed,
leaving me alone with Kayla,
lying in the sand and
staring at the starlit sky
accented by the crescent moon,
and listening to the sweet soothing sound
of the ocean in motion

Eurotrip 2009 Part 1: Rothenburg

This is a re-posting of my 2009 Eurotrip journal. I am revisiting it in order to split the long original post into smaller parts that will fit more neatly into the country categories of the top menu. I also wanted to restore some images that were lost when I imported my old blog to WordPress.

What follows is the original text with minor edits and a few new (and reprocessed) images here and there. Consider it the special edition, or Eurotrip 2009 Revisited. 🙂

This is actually a photo from later in the trip (Innsbruck, Austria),
but I thought it was a nice choice for kicking off the journal.

This journal chronicles my trip to Europe from April 4th to April 12th, 2009.  First, a little background. My Uncle Kipp is a high school German teacher who takes his students on biennial Spring Break trips to Germany through a tour company called ACIS. As group leader, his trip is free, and he is allotted a certain number of chaperones, who also get to go for free. This was my second trip with one of his classes (I had also chaperoned two years ago). As with the previous trip, I paid extra to be guaranteed my own room, so my trip ended up costing $280, which is still obviously an enormous bargain for a trip to Europe, and more than worth it to have my own room for the week.

On this trip we were joined by my cousin Amber, who would be turning 18 in Munich (coincidentally, I had celebrated my 36th birthday in Munich two years ago). I wish I had kept a journal for that first trip because it would have been interesting to compare the two trips, but this one will have to do…

Flight

After packing all night and getting little sleep, we left the house around 12:45 p.m. for Gateway high school in South Jersey. The airport shuttle arrived at Gateway a little after 2 p.m. and, after saying our goodbyes to family, we were off.

We breezed through check-in at Philly airport—and I wasn’t searched for a change! The flight did not leave until 6:15 and we had some time to kill, so I watched the Star Wars episode of Family Guy on my iPod. Also during this time, I learned how easy it is to misplace your passport as I had a brief panic attack when I couldn’t find mine (it was under the seat I had been sitting in.) It would not be the last time on this trip that I would have a passport snafu (more on that later).

On the flight I got separated from the rest of the group and wound up with a window seat. I would have preferred an aisle seat but at least I had a nice view. I like this shot of the sun setting over the runway as the plane turned for takeoff:

Turning onto the runway

During the flight, Lufthansa serves food and drinks (all free). The dinner was actually pretty good for plane food and I had a few glasses of white wine to wash it down. The woman sitting next to me was nice and we had a good conversation for the first half of the flight. She was headed to Germany on business for Siemens.

I tried to sleep during the second half of the flight to no avail thanks to the guy behind me kicking my seat the entire time. I finally gave up and decided to watch a movie. They now have touch screens on every seat where you can choose from a number of movies, TV shows, and music channels. The movies are edited for content, but it wasn’t too noticeable. I decided to watch Twilight (the first film had just come out) to see what all of the hype was about—there’s two hours of my life I’ll never get back. Anyway, we soon landed. I bought a pair of earplugs supposedly designed to help relieve the pressure during takeoff and landing, but they didn’t work; I pulled them out about halfway through the landing. Thankfully, I’m more of a veteran now and better at popping my ears on flights, but at the time it was only my second flight in 20 years.

Rothenburg

We arrived at Frankfurt airport around 8 a.m., met up with our tour guide, Keith, and hopped on the ACIS bus. The other two groups had arrived before us, so there wasn’t much choice in terms of seating (it would be the first salvo in a week-long battle for seats on the bus). The drive to Rothenburg, a charming medieval town surrounded by a perfectly preserved city wall, took around two hours.

First shot of the wall surrounding the medieval city of Rothenburg

We were unable to check in to our hotel until 3:30 in the afternoon so the bus dropped us off and we embarked on a walking tour of the city with our full plane carry-ons in tow (I had not been to sleep since the previous day). After the walking tour we split up and went off on our own. I ate lunch with Uncle Kipp, Amber, her friend Sam, and Sam’s grandmother Elizabeth. This was the group I hung out with for most of the trip. We sat outside at a restaurant in the town square. The lunch I had was fantastic, and would prove to be my best meal of the trip. It was a pork steak in a dark beer sauce topped with onions and thick bacon, with a large pile of awesome fried potatoes on the side. After lunch we stopped for some delicious gelato. We then walked around the city streets and on the wall, taking lots of photos. Here are a few:

Rothenburg
Typical Rothenburg street
The wall
A covered bridge
Amber and me with Sam (the girl Amber befriended and hung out with for most of the trip)

I was finally able to check into my room around 4pm, at which time I crashed and got about an hour of sleep before dinner at the hotel. Dinner that night was decent, a beef pot roast. That night we walked back into town for more gelato and to see the town crier, who was dressed in full period costume.

The town crier in full costume

After that I went to bed early, around 11:15 p.m., but not before I realized that I had forgotten to bring my contact case, so I was forced to improvise a container to store my contacts for the evening. The next morning I awoke before the wake-up call (after waking up several other times throughout the night) and went down to breakfast in the hotel. Following breakfast we had to be packed and ready to put our suitcases on the bus by 8:30. Amber was late and wound up having to store her suitcase at the hotel front desk after the bus driver left, which led to a scolding from Uncle Kipp. 🙂

That day we had some free time before leaving town, so I walked around Rothenburg by myself. First I toured the historical museum in the town hall devoted to the 30 Years War, which had a cool dungeon complete with cells and instruments of torture. I also tried to climb the town hall tower to get a bird’s eye view of the city, but it was closed for the day, so I did some shopping and then ate at the same restaurant where I had the great meal the day before. This time it wasn’t as good, but it was still okay: a pork chop, sauerkraut, and my first beer of the week.

I was disappointed to discover that I could not use my credit card to pay for the meal because there was a $25 minimum (this would be a recurring theme throughout Europe), but when you’re traveling you have to roll with the punches and realize that many things are not going to be the same as they are back home, though Europe is pretty close—if you can’t handle the minor differences in Europe you should probably do all of your vacationing in the States. 😉

Later I bought a chocolate covered snowball (a local specialty for which I cannot remember the German name), and soon after we were back on the bus for Munich, which will be covered in the next installment. Until then, I’ll leave you with a couple of night shots of Rothenburg.

City Hall
Outside the wall

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The Eyes of Mictlan

The following is an excerpt from my upcoming novel, The Eyes of Mictlan, available now for pre-order at Amazon, releasing on June 8th, 2015.

cover3b

Chapter 1: Threshold

Now

The summer sky of southern Mississippi glowed orange, purple, and gold as the sun continued its descent below the western horizon.  Sam Cristo stepped off the only bus leading into or out of the fringe town of Edgewood and wiped a bead of sweat from his brow.  According to the local weather broadcast, which had been blaring through the crackling speakers of the bus driver’s aging radio, the temperature had reached 103 degrees at its peak on this Saturday, though to Sam it felt like twice that.

As the bus made its departure he inhaled a cloud of dust kicked up by the bus tires spinning against the loose dirt road.  Examining his surroundings, Sam realized that no one else had stepped off the bus at this stop.  According to rumor, Edgewood was not the sort of town that people visited, nor were the native citizens likely to ever leave.  At first Sam had wondered why the locals would remain in a place where such terrible things allegedly happened, but he decided that they belonged to the same club as those who remained in homes repeatedly battered by natural disasters like hurricanes.

The bus had dropped him off beside a bench in front of a mini-mart called Ed’s, which apparently doubled as the town bus station.  Sam found it surprising that a bus would even bother to stop in a town so diminutive that it did not appear on any map—he had expected to wind up in a larger town where he would have to ask for directions.  Then again, if the local stories were to be believed, Edgewood frequently defied common convention.  He thought back to the sign he had seen from the bus as it entered the city limits:

Edgewood – Population: 795

Although most of the sign consisted of permanent lettering, the last two digits were the same type of removable numbers one might find at a gas station, as if they were changed on a regular basis.

Sam looked past Ed’s mini-mart toward a saloon called Last Stop, which sat on the mini-mart’s right.  To the left of Ed’s stood a small combination post office/police station with a single patrol car parked in front.  There was no mail truck in sight.  In a town this small, he guessed, the mailman likely walked.  Behind the three buildings Sam saw the green foliage of tall trees bordering an extensive forest.  Small, rancher-style homes lined the rest of the street on either side.  Next to the bench was a road sign with the name Main Street on it.

How original, he thought.

Sam’s hypersensitive skin began to burn under the still potent rays of the falling sun so he decided it was a good time to get inside.  He walked toward the Last Stop, determined to throw back a few cold beers.  Sam wasn’t much of a drinker anymore but tonight was a special occasion.  After all, he had come a long way to track down the murderer of his beloved Jeanette.

 II

 A bevy of clichés riddled the inside of the smoky saloon.  Pictures of the bartender posing with various patrons surrounded a neon Bud sign to the right of the door.  The right wall featured several pictures of youth sports teams dating back five years, while the left wall sported three posters of bikini-clad models.  An oak-finished bar lined the far wall, with a door behind the bar leading to a rear room that Sam guessed was a kitchen, based on the smell of frying meat that permeated the air.  A heavy-set man tended bar, pouring beers for the three people sitting to his right.  He scratched the chin of his unshaven face and turned toward Sam as a beam of light from the open door pierced the darkness of the black-lit saloon.

“Hey buddy, you wanna close that thing?” the bartender said to Sam, pointing toward the door.

“Sorry,” Sam replied as he reached back to close the door while searching for a place to sit.  He found an empty stool between a blonde-haired woman and a scrawny, middle-aged man.  He felt the eyes of everyone in the bar staring him down as he took his seat.

The bartender tugged on his undersized Confederate flag t-shirt in a vain attempt to cover his bulging potbelly.  “What’ll it be?”

“Bud bottle,” Sam replied, choking on smoke emanating from the blonde woman’s Virginia Slim.

“Can I interest you in our hot wings?  House special.”

“No thanks.”

The bartender reached beneath the bar and produced a bottle of Budweiser, which he promptly opened and placed on a cardboard coaster before Sam.  “Two bucks.”

Sam reached into his pocket, pulled out a five-dollar bill, and handed it to the bartender.  The scrawny man to Sam’s left stood up from his stool and walked over to the jukebox, which occupied the wall in front of the restroom.  Moments later, a country song that Sam could not identify began blaring out of the jukebox’s speaker as the man returned to his stool.  Sam hated country music, but in this neck of the woods he was well advised to keep that opinion to himself.  The bartender returned with three single bills and dropped them on the bar in front of Sam.

“Where’s my burger, Phil?” the scrawny man shouted at the bartender.

“Keep your shirt on, Ed, I’m going back to get it now,” Phil answered as he disappeared behind the revolving door into the kitchen.

Sam studied the scrawny man, wondering if he was the same Ed from the Mini-mart next door.

“What’re you lookin’ at?” the man suddenly snapped at Sam.

“Nothing,” he replied, turning away.

Ed slammed down his drink and rose to his feet.  “You callin’ me nothing?”

“Sit down, Ed, he didn’t mean anything by it,” the blonde woman interrupted as she crushed her cigarette into an ashtray.

“I’m sorry.  I didn’t mean anything by it,” Sam echoed.

“You just better watch yourself,” Ed warned as he sat back down.

“I will,” Sam replied, wishing to avoid a physical confrontation.  Ed obviously suffered from a Napoleon complex—the man barely reached Sam’s chest standing up.

“Ed’s always lookin’ for someone to scrap with,” the woman said.

“That’s right!” Ed interjected.  “You just keep your friend away from me, Paula, and I won’t have to hurt ‘im!”

“Thanks,” Sam said to Paula, who was already sucking on a new cigarette.  She was even skinnier than Ed.  Sam thought she might well be anorexic.

Paula leaned over to Sam’s ear.  “No offense, friend, but it was Ed I was really lookin’ out for.  He has a habit of getting his ass kicked when he’s had too much to drink.”

“Well thank you nonetheless.  I don’t want any trouble.”

“So what’s your story?  You don’t look like you’re from around these parts.”

“My name’s Sam.  I’m just passing through.”

“Passing through to where?  This town ain’t exactly the Mecca of civilization.  What brings you to Edgewood?”

“I’m looking for a place.”

“Well that shouldn’t be too hard.  There ain’t exactly a lot of ground to cover in this town.  Maybe I can help.  You lookin’ for someone’s house or something?”

“Not exactly.”

“Well stop beating around the bush, honey.  I can’t help you if you don’t tell me what you’re looking for.”

Sam braced himself.  “Have you ever heard the name Aceldama?”

Paula jumped out of her seat and threw her cigarette down.  “I don’t know what the hell you’re gettin’ yourself into, but I don’t want no part of it!  You stay the hell away from me!”  By the time she finished her sentence she was halfway to the front door.

“I guess she heard of it,” Sam said to no one in particular.

As the door slammed behind Paula, Phil re-emerged from the kitchen carrying a plate containing one cheeseburger and a side of fries.  “Where did Paula run off to?” he asked, setting the plate down in front of Ed.

“Ask our new friend,” Ed replied.

Phil glared at Sam.  “Did you say something to her?”

“I was just asking her if she could help me find this place I’m looking for.”

“And what place would that be?”

“Forget about it,” Sam said.

“Look, buddy, you said something to upset one of my loyal patrons, and I want to know what.”

“Fine.”  Sam knew what was coming next.  It was the sort of reaction to which he had grown accustomed since setting foot in this county.  “Aceldama.”

Phil retrieved a shotgun from under the bar and trained it on Sam’s head.  “You get the hell out of my bar!  And take whatever trouble you’re bringing with you!”

Sam held up his hands.  “Okay, okay.  Sorry to have bothered you.”  He pointed to the three dollars still sitting on the bar.  “Why don’t you keep the change?”

“Now!” Phil demanded, motioning toward the door with his gun.  “And if I were you, I’d leave town.  We don’t take kindly to strangers around here.”

“And the clichés just keep on rolling,” Sam muttered.

Phil pumped the shotgun.  “What did you say?”

The threatening voice masked an inherent fear that Sam saw in the man’s eyes.  He stood up and backed away.  “Nothing.  I’m leaving.”

“Damn right you are!” the burly bartender replied.

Sam briskly walked to the door and opened it.  As he exited the bar he heard the fading sound of Ed’s drunken voice issuing more idle threats.  He closed the door and found himself back out in the summer heat, which, to Sam’s disappointment, had not vanished with the setting sun.  He had hoped to leave the bar a little later when it would have been darker and cooler.  He leaned against the stone exterior of the saloon, contemplating his next move.  There had to be somebody in this shadow of a town who could help him.

 III

 The saloon door suddenly swung open, momentarily spewing the sound of country music into the silence of the bar’s exterior.  Sam whirled around, preparing to defend himself against Ed, Phil, or some other attacker.  Instead he found himself face to face with a smallish old man.  The man jumped back, startled by Sam’s defensive posture.  Sam immediately dropped his guard.

“Jeez, son, you scared the hell out of me!  You could give an old man a heart attack!” the man shouted.

“Sorry.  I thought you were someone else.”

The old man looked Sam over thoughtfully.  “I hear you’re lookin’ for a certain place.”

“That’s right.”

“I sort of overheard your conversation in there,” the man offered.

“That doesn’t seem possible.  I don’t recall seeing you anywhere in the bar.”

“Trust me, son, I was there.  Now do you want my help or not?”

“You’ve heard of Aceldama?”

“Sure have.  Been there myself on occasion.”

“You know, you’re the first person in this area not to bite my head off at the mere mention of the word.”

“I suppose people think if they ignore that which frightens them, it will cease to exist.  In any event, you’re not going to find too many friendly faces around here.  In the past, the appearance of a stranger has often been accompanied by unpleasant events.”

“Then I’ll be sure not to stick around too long.  If you’ll just tell me where I can find Aceldama, I’ll be on my way.”

“Are you sure you really want to find this place?  It’s not something most people go out of their way to seek.  I myself have no desire to ever return.”

“But I’ve come a long way.  Can you help me or not?”

“Well, I don’t know exactly where it is—”

Sam was growing agitated, a combination of the heat and the vitriol he had encountered in the bar.  “What the hell are you playing at?  You just said you’ve been there!”

“What I meant was, I don’t know the exact location—no one does.  I can get you to the general area.  But I wonder if you’re aware of what you’re getting yourself into.”

“Believe me, pal, I’m well aware.  Just point me in the right direction.”

“Very well.  Behind this building is a forest that leads to the river.  Once you get to the shoreline, follow the river South.”

“That’s it?” Sam asked after an awkward pause.

“Pretty much, yeah.”

“How will I know where to find it?”

“Well, son, if you’ve got blood on your hands, Aceldama will find you.”

Sam whirled around.  “What does that mean?”

The old man was nowhere in sight but Sam nearly jumped out of his skin as the man’s voice suddenly boomed from behind: “If you do make it there, you’ll likely wish you never had.”

Sam twisted around toward the source of the voice, finding nothing but empty air.  “Hello? …  Hello?”

The only reply was silence.  After taking a last look around, Sam began to walk toward the back of the saloon and the forest beyond.

 IV

 By the time he reached the forest, the last sliver of daylight had given way to night.  A normal human would have been completely lost in the darkness, but fortunately for Sam, he was anything but normal.  He followed a path that appeared to head generally west toward the river.  The stagnant blackness of the thick forest was periodically interrupted by intermittent shards of pale moonlight.  The cricket-dominated sounds of night creatures flooded the air as Sam trudged along the path, his Nike sneakers crunching the leaves and twigs that lined the ground.  He heard the occasional rustling of foliage as various animals scurried around him, never crossing his path—the creatures kept their distance.

The density of the forest increased as the songs of its cricket population reached deafening decibels.  Loose debris, disturbed by the wind’s acceleration, swirled around, occasionally hitting Sam in the face.  He wondered how such a fierce wind could penetrate this deeply into the woods—it wasn’t natural—then again, nothing about this place was particularly natural.  Perhaps, he supposed, it meant he was closing in on Aceldama.

The night soon grew just as cold as the day had been hot, as if some weather god had just flipped a switch.  His summer clothing provided inefficient protection from the rapidly decreasing temperature, so Sam picked up his pace to a slow jog.  He ran for what seemed like an eternity, realizing in the process that he had seriously misjudged his proximity to the river.  Finally, he burst through the edge of the forest—and immediately tumbled down a steep embankment.  His right shoulder landed with a thud on a narrow beach, the rest of his body following suit, leaving him prone and staring up at the starless sky.  He lay there for a few minutes trying to recapture the air that had been knocked from his lungs.

The howling wind hammered the trees, sending giant branches flying in every direction.  Dirt and debris flew into the air, coalescing into a brown funnel cloud that moved over the water.  Enormous waves sprang from the river and beat ferociously against the shore.  Sam had never seen anything like it.  He felt as if he were on the shore of an ocean in the midst of a storm rather than an inland river in Mississippi.  He rose unsteadily to his feet, barely able to stand against the violent wind, and began walking south, the river raging to his right.  The crickets seemed to be battling the wind and river for audio supremacy.  Eventually, the clashing sounds blended into a white noise that pierced Sam’s ears to the point where he thought his eardrums would burst.

Then it all stopped.

The sudden silence caught Sam off-guard and he nearly tripped to the ground as his body continued to push against a wind that was no longer there.  The river stood as calm as if the last few minutes had never happened; not even a ripple penetrated its still surface.  The crickets had vanished. In fact, Sam could not hear a single sound coming from the forest.  He looked around and around, confounded by yet another unnatural shift in the environment, but thankful for the relief (his ears rang louder than the time he had sat near a mammoth speaker for three hours at a Bruce Springsteen concert).

The calm, however, did not last long.  A high-pitched noise soon emanated from the middle of the river.  What initially sounded to Sam like wind morphed into millions of screaming voices almost singing in a harsh dissonance that reminded him of the “Jupiter and Beyond the Infinite” sequence from Kubrick’s 2001.  The voices grew louder as they approached Sam’s position, washing over him in an aural tidal wave.  He covered his ears in a useless attempt to dampen the sound.  He shuddered as goose bumps broke out all over his flesh.

Then a blinding flash of light materialized over the water and expanded into a long, bright-red beam rising perpendicular to the ground.  Hundreds of beams proceeded to bisect the first beam from every angle.  The entire luminescent structure began rotating faster and faster until it became a single perfect circle, glowing with every color of the visible spectrum.  Sam suddenly found himself dragged toward the center of the entity as he shielded his eyes from its brilliance.  He knew this was likely the doorway to Aceldama, but his first instinct was to resist the forces pulling on his body.  The struggle, however, proved futile as the tremendous force generated by the portal lifted him off the ground and sucked him in.

Sam ultimately surrendered, allowing the portal to take him wherever it might.  Looking around, he saw nothing but multi-colored light surrounding him on all sides, and he thought once again of the wormhole sequence from 2001.  He continued to float in mid-air, slowly rotating head over heels as he traveled through the strange formation.  Visions of his past began flashing in front of him.  Soon every image, sound, smell, and feeling that Sam had ever experienced attacked his senses at a furiously random pace.  Having no idea how long he would be in this state of transition, Sam took a deep breath and began to concentrate on the stimuli before him.  He discovered that with a little patience, he could actually bring some order to the sights and sounds weaving in and out of his consciousness.  So he embraced the images, clinging to the distant memories of his past life for perhaps the last time.

He knew that once he reached the other side his life would never be the same.  But then Sam had grown accustomed to change—his life had abandoned any sense of normality and stability a long, long time ago.

-end of excerpt-

Dubrovnik: A Tour of King’s Landing (and other locations)

When I visited the medieval walled city of Dubrovnik, Croatia in November of 2011, I had no idea that one of my favorite television shows, Game of Thrones, had just recently finished filming its second season there. When the season premiere aired four months later, I realized that Dubrovnik had been used to depict King’s Landing (though I also recognized a few other parts of the city in other scenes, such as those in Qarth).

The strange sensation of seeing the city walls I had so recently walked and photographed being used to represent this fantasy world led to some occasional difficulty suspending disbelief, but I nevertheless thought it was quite cool to have actually stood in the same locations as the characters in the show.

I will write much more about my visit to the magnificent city of Dubrovnik in my travelogue, but for now I thought I would just share some of my photos that match up with locations from the television series (based on my foggy memory from seeing Season 2 nearly a year ago).  Very minor spoilers ahead for those who haven’t watched the second season . . .

A CGI-enhanced version of this city line stands in for King’s Landing in the show.
The island in the background was used for some of the scenes with Daenerys in Qarth.
Streets of Dubrovnik, err, I mean King’s Landing.
This area was used for some external King’s Landing scenes.
The tower to the right was used to depict the
outside of the House of the Undying in Qarth.
Daenerys walked along this area before entering.
You can see why Dubrovnik makes such a perfect shooting location for a fantasy show.
Many scenes were filmed along these walls that surround the entire city.
This angle is similar to one used in the show, with
a CGI-enhanced version of the fort in the background.
The fort itself was heavily used for King’s Landing exterior scenes.
These hobbit-like doors built into the hill underneath the fort were featured during
the montage in which Joffrey had all of King Robert’s bastard sons murdered.
The interior of the fort was used for several scenes in and around the castle.
Another interior fort shot. Cersei and Littlefinger had a conversation in this hall.
This fort courtyard was frequently used.
This upper level of the fort was one of the main exterior filming locations for King’s Landing.
The fact that the background is all water and sky probably made the fort the easiest
location to use in terms of not needing to hide a bunch of stuff or crop it out with CGI.
A closer look at the island that stood in for Qarth (i.e., the Daenerys scenes).
The area among the trees down by the water was also used for a few King’s Landing scenes.

I’m sure there were several other areas used for filming that I’m not recalling at the moment, but I don’t feel like re-watching the entire season right now to find them :-), so I’ll just leave you with one final long-exposure night shot that feels a bit like a fantasy photo with the smoothness of the water:

See more photos from Dubrovnik

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