Eurotrip 2009 Part 1: Rothenburg

This is a re-posting of my 2009 Eurotrip journal. I am revisiting it in order to split the long original post into smaller parts that will fit more neatly into the country categories of the top menu. I also wanted to restore some images that were lost when I imported my old blog to WordPress.

What follows is the original text with minor edits and a few new (and reprocessed) images here and there. Consider it the special edition, or Eurotrip 2009 Revisited. 🙂

This is actually a photo from later in the trip (Innsbruck, Austria),
but I thought it was a nice choice for kicking off the journal.

This journal chronicles my trip to Europe from April 4th to April 12th, 2009.  First, a little background. My Uncle Kipp is a high school German teacher who takes his students on biennial Spring Break trips to Germany through a tour company called ACIS. As group leader, his trip is free, and he is allotted a certain number of chaperones, who also get to go for free. This was my second trip with one of his classes (I had also chaperoned two years ago). As with the previous trip, I paid extra to be guaranteed my own room, so my trip ended up costing $280, which is still obviously an enormous bargain for a trip to Europe, and more than worth it to have my own room for the week.

On this trip we were joined by my cousin Amber, who would be turning 18 in Munich (coincidentally, I had celebrated my 36th birthday in Munich two years ago). I wish I had kept a journal for that first trip because it would have been interesting to compare the two trips, but this one will have to do…

Flight

After packing all night and getting little sleep, we left the house around 12:45 p.m. for Gateway high school in South Jersey. The airport shuttle arrived at Gateway a little after 2 p.m. and, after saying our goodbyes to family, we were off.

We breezed through check-in at Philly airport—and I wasn’t searched for a change! The flight did not leave until 6:15 and we had some time to kill, so I watched the Star Wars episode of Family Guy on my iPod. Also during this time, I learned how easy it is to misplace your passport as I had a brief panic attack when I couldn’t find mine (it was under the seat I had been sitting in.) It would not be the last time on this trip that I would have a passport snafu (more on that later).

On the flight I got separated from the rest of the group and wound up with a window seat. I would have preferred an aisle seat but at least I had a nice view. I like this shot of the sun setting over the runway as the plane turned for takeoff:

Turning onto the runway

During the flight, Lufthansa serves food and drinks (all free). The dinner was actually pretty good for plane food and I had a few glasses of white wine to wash it down. The woman sitting next to me was nice and we had a good conversation for the first half of the flight. She was headed to Germany on business for Siemens.

I tried to sleep during the second half of the flight to no avail thanks to the guy behind me kicking my seat the entire time. I finally gave up and decided to watch a movie. They now have touch screens on every seat where you can choose from a number of movies, TV shows, and music channels. The movies are edited for content, but it wasn’t too noticeable. I decided to watch Twilight (the first film had just come out) to see what all of the hype was about—there’s two hours of my life I’ll never get back. Anyway, we soon landed. I bought a pair of earplugs supposedly designed to help relieve the pressure during takeoff and landing, but they didn’t work; I pulled them out about halfway through the landing. Thankfully, I’m more of a veteran now and better at popping my ears on flights, but at the time it was only my second flight in 20 years.

Rothenburg

We arrived at Frankfurt airport around 8 a.m., met up with our tour guide, Keith, and hopped on the ACIS bus. The other two groups had arrived before us, so there wasn’t much choice in terms of seating (it would be the first salvo in a week-long battle for seats on the bus). The drive to Rothenburg, a charming medieval town surrounded by a perfectly preserved city wall, took around two hours.

First shot of the wall surrounding the medieval city of Rothenburg

We were unable to check in to our hotel until 3:30 in the afternoon so the bus dropped us off and we embarked on a walking tour of the city with our full plane carry-ons in tow (I had not been to sleep since the previous day). After the walking tour we split up and went off on our own. I ate lunch with Uncle Kipp, Amber, her friend Sam, and Sam’s grandmother Elizabeth. This was the group I hung out with for most of the trip. We sat outside at a restaurant in the town square. The lunch I had was fantastic, and would prove to be my best meal of the trip. It was a pork steak in a dark beer sauce topped with onions and thick bacon, with a large pile of awesome fried potatoes on the side. After lunch we stopped for some delicious gelato. We then walked around the city streets and on the wall, taking lots of photos. Here are a few:

Rothenburg
Typical Rothenburg street
The wall
A covered bridge
Amber and me with Sam (the girl Amber befriended and hung out with for most of the trip)

I was finally able to check into my room around 4pm, at which time I crashed and got about an hour of sleep before dinner at the hotel. Dinner that night was decent, a beef pot roast. That night we walked back into town for more gelato and to see the town crier, who was dressed in full period costume.

The town crier in full costume

After that I went to bed early, around 11:15 p.m., but not before I realized that I had forgotten to bring my contact case, so I was forced to improvise a container to store my contacts for the evening. The next morning I awoke before the wake-up call (after waking up several other times throughout the night) and went down to breakfast in the hotel. Following breakfast we had to be packed and ready to put our suitcases on the bus by 8:30. Amber was late and wound up having to store her suitcase at the hotel front desk after the bus driver left, which led to a scolding from Uncle Kipp. 🙂

That day we had some free time before leaving town, so I walked around Rothenburg by myself. First I toured the historical museum in the town hall devoted to the 30 Years War, which had a cool dungeon complete with cells and instruments of torture. I also tried to climb the town hall tower to get a bird’s eye view of the city, but it was closed for the day, so I did some shopping and then ate at the same restaurant where I had the great meal the day before. This time it wasn’t as good, but it was still okay: a pork chop, sauerkraut, and my first beer of the week.

I was disappointed to discover that I could not use my credit card to pay for the meal because there was a $25 minimum (this would be a recurring theme throughout Europe), but when you’re traveling you have to roll with the punches and realize that many things are not going to be the same as they are back home, though Europe is pretty close—if you can’t handle the minor differences in Europe you should probably do all of your vacationing in the States. 😉

Later I bought a chocolate covered snowball (a local specialty for which I cannot remember the German name), and soon after we were back on the bus for Munich, which will be covered in the next installment. Until then, I’ll leave you with a couple of night shots of Rothenburg.

City Hall
Outside the wall

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The Eyes of Mictlan

The following is an excerpt from my upcoming novel, The Eyes of Mictlan, available now for pre-order at Amazon, releasing on June 8th, 2015.

cover3b

Chapter 1: Threshold

Now

The summer sky of southern Mississippi glowed orange, purple, and gold as the sun continued its descent below the western horizon.  Sam Cristo stepped off the only bus leading into or out of the fringe town of Edgewood and wiped a bead of sweat from his brow.  According to the local weather broadcast, which had been blaring through the crackling speakers of the bus driver’s aging radio, the temperature had reached 103 degrees at its peak on this Saturday, though to Sam it felt like twice that.

As the bus made its departure he inhaled a cloud of dust kicked up by the bus tires spinning against the loose dirt road.  Examining his surroundings, Sam realized that no one else had stepped off the bus at this stop.  According to rumor, Edgewood was not the sort of town that people visited, nor were the native citizens likely to ever leave.  At first Sam had wondered why the locals would remain in a place where such terrible things allegedly happened, but he decided that they belonged to the same club as those who remained in homes repeatedly battered by natural disasters like hurricanes.

The bus had dropped him off beside a bench in front of a mini-mart called Ed’s, which apparently doubled as the town bus station.  Sam found it surprising that a bus would even bother to stop in a town so diminutive that it did not appear on any map—he had expected to wind up in a larger town where he would have to ask for directions.  Then again, if the local stories were to be believed, Edgewood frequently defied common convention.  He thought back to the sign he had seen from the bus as it entered the city limits:

Edgewood – Population: 795

Although most of the sign consisted of permanent lettering, the last two digits were the same type of removable numbers one might find at a gas station, as if they were changed on a regular basis.

Sam looked past Ed’s mini-mart toward a saloon called Last Stop, which sat on the mini-mart’s right.  To the left of Ed’s stood a small combination post office/police station with a single patrol car parked in front.  There was no mail truck in sight.  In a town this small, he guessed, the mailman likely walked.  Behind the three buildings Sam saw the green foliage of tall trees bordering an extensive forest.  Small, rancher-style homes lined the rest of the street on either side.  Next to the bench was a road sign with the name Main Street on it.

How original, he thought.

Sam’s hypersensitive skin began to burn under the still potent rays of the falling sun so he decided it was a good time to get inside.  He walked toward the Last Stop, determined to throw back a few cold beers.  Sam wasn’t much of a drinker anymore but tonight was a special occasion.  After all, he had come a long way to track down the murderer of his beloved Jeanette.

 II

 A bevy of clichés riddled the inside of the smoky saloon.  Pictures of the bartender posing with various patrons surrounded a neon Bud sign to the right of the door.  The right wall featured several pictures of youth sports teams dating back five years, while the left wall sported three posters of bikini-clad models.  An oak-finished bar lined the far wall, with a door behind the bar leading to a rear room that Sam guessed was a kitchen, based on the smell of frying meat that permeated the air.  A heavy-set man tended bar, pouring beers for the three people sitting to his right.  He scratched the chin of his unshaven face and turned toward Sam as a beam of light from the open door pierced the darkness of the black-lit saloon.

“Hey buddy, you wanna close that thing?” the bartender said to Sam, pointing toward the door.

“Sorry,” Sam replied as he reached back to close the door while searching for a place to sit.  He found an empty stool between a blonde-haired woman and a scrawny, middle-aged man.  He felt the eyes of everyone in the bar staring him down as he took his seat.

The bartender tugged on his undersized Confederate flag t-shirt in a vain attempt to cover his bulging potbelly.  “What’ll it be?”

“Bud bottle,” Sam replied, choking on smoke emanating from the blonde woman’s Virginia Slim.

“Can I interest you in our hot wings?  House special.”

“No thanks.”

The bartender reached beneath the bar and produced a bottle of Budweiser, which he promptly opened and placed on a cardboard coaster before Sam.  “Two bucks.”

Sam reached into his pocket, pulled out a five-dollar bill, and handed it to the bartender.  The scrawny man to Sam’s left stood up from his stool and walked over to the jukebox, which occupied the wall in front of the restroom.  Moments later, a country song that Sam could not identify began blaring out of the jukebox’s speaker as the man returned to his stool.  Sam hated country music, but in this neck of the woods he was well advised to keep that opinion to himself.  The bartender returned with three single bills and dropped them on the bar in front of Sam.

“Where’s my burger, Phil?” the scrawny man shouted at the bartender.

“Keep your shirt on, Ed, I’m going back to get it now,” Phil answered as he disappeared behind the revolving door into the kitchen.

Sam studied the scrawny man, wondering if he was the same Ed from the Mini-mart next door.

“What’re you lookin’ at?” the man suddenly snapped at Sam.

“Nothing,” he replied, turning away.

Ed slammed down his drink and rose to his feet.  “You callin’ me nothing?”

“Sit down, Ed, he didn’t mean anything by it,” the blonde woman interrupted as she crushed her cigarette into an ashtray.

“I’m sorry.  I didn’t mean anything by it,” Sam echoed.

“You just better watch yourself,” Ed warned as he sat back down.

“I will,” Sam replied, wishing to avoid a physical confrontation.  Ed obviously suffered from a Napoleon complex—the man barely reached Sam’s chest standing up.

“Ed’s always lookin’ for someone to scrap with,” the woman said.

“That’s right!” Ed interjected.  “You just keep your friend away from me, Paula, and I won’t have to hurt ‘im!”

“Thanks,” Sam said to Paula, who was already sucking on a new cigarette.  She was even skinnier than Ed.  Sam thought she might well be anorexic.

Paula leaned over to Sam’s ear.  “No offense, friend, but it was Ed I was really lookin’ out for.  He has a habit of getting his ass kicked when he’s had too much to drink.”

“Well thank you nonetheless.  I don’t want any trouble.”

“So what’s your story?  You don’t look like you’re from around these parts.”

“My name’s Sam.  I’m just passing through.”

“Passing through to where?  This town ain’t exactly the Mecca of civilization.  What brings you to Edgewood?”

“I’m looking for a place.”

“Well that shouldn’t be too hard.  There ain’t exactly a lot of ground to cover in this town.  Maybe I can help.  You lookin’ for someone’s house or something?”

“Not exactly.”

“Well stop beating around the bush, honey.  I can’t help you if you don’t tell me what you’re looking for.”

Sam braced himself.  “Have you ever heard the name Aceldama?”

Paula jumped out of her seat and threw her cigarette down.  “I don’t know what the hell you’re gettin’ yourself into, but I don’t want no part of it!  You stay the hell away from me!”  By the time she finished her sentence she was halfway to the front door.

“I guess she heard of it,” Sam said to no one in particular.

As the door slammed behind Paula, Phil re-emerged from the kitchen carrying a plate containing one cheeseburger and a side of fries.  “Where did Paula run off to?” he asked, setting the plate down in front of Ed.

“Ask our new friend,” Ed replied.

Phil glared at Sam.  “Did you say something to her?”

“I was just asking her if she could help me find this place I’m looking for.”

“And what place would that be?”

“Forget about it,” Sam said.

“Look, buddy, you said something to upset one of my loyal patrons, and I want to know what.”

“Fine.”  Sam knew what was coming next.  It was the sort of reaction to which he had grown accustomed since setting foot in this county.  “Aceldama.”

Phil retrieved a shotgun from under the bar and trained it on Sam’s head.  “You get the hell out of my bar!  And take whatever trouble you’re bringing with you!”

Sam held up his hands.  “Okay, okay.  Sorry to have bothered you.”  He pointed to the three dollars still sitting on the bar.  “Why don’t you keep the change?”

“Now!” Phil demanded, motioning toward the door with his gun.  “And if I were you, I’d leave town.  We don’t take kindly to strangers around here.”

“And the clichés just keep on rolling,” Sam muttered.

Phil pumped the shotgun.  “What did you say?”

The threatening voice masked an inherent fear that Sam saw in the man’s eyes.  He stood up and backed away.  “Nothing.  I’m leaving.”

“Damn right you are!” the burly bartender replied.

Sam briskly walked to the door and opened it.  As he exited the bar he heard the fading sound of Ed’s drunken voice issuing more idle threats.  He closed the door and found himself back out in the summer heat, which, to Sam’s disappointment, had not vanished with the setting sun.  He had hoped to leave the bar a little later when it would have been darker and cooler.  He leaned against the stone exterior of the saloon, contemplating his next move.  There had to be somebody in this shadow of a town who could help him.

 III

 The saloon door suddenly swung open, momentarily spewing the sound of country music into the silence of the bar’s exterior.  Sam whirled around, preparing to defend himself against Ed, Phil, or some other attacker.  Instead he found himself face to face with a smallish old man.  The man jumped back, startled by Sam’s defensive posture.  Sam immediately dropped his guard.

“Jeez, son, you scared the hell out of me!  You could give an old man a heart attack!” the man shouted.

“Sorry.  I thought you were someone else.”

The old man looked Sam over thoughtfully.  “I hear you’re lookin’ for a certain place.”

“That’s right.”

“I sort of overheard your conversation in there,” the man offered.

“That doesn’t seem possible.  I don’t recall seeing you anywhere in the bar.”

“Trust me, son, I was there.  Now do you want my help or not?”

“You’ve heard of Aceldama?”

“Sure have.  Been there myself on occasion.”

“You know, you’re the first person in this area not to bite my head off at the mere mention of the word.”

“I suppose people think if they ignore that which frightens them, it will cease to exist.  In any event, you’re not going to find too many friendly faces around here.  In the past, the appearance of a stranger has often been accompanied by unpleasant events.”

“Then I’ll be sure not to stick around too long.  If you’ll just tell me where I can find Aceldama, I’ll be on my way.”

“Are you sure you really want to find this place?  It’s not something most people go out of their way to seek.  I myself have no desire to ever return.”

“But I’ve come a long way.  Can you help me or not?”

“Well, I don’t know exactly where it is—”

Sam was growing agitated, a combination of the heat and the vitriol he had encountered in the bar.  “What the hell are you playing at?  You just said you’ve been there!”

“What I meant was, I don’t know the exact location—no one does.  I can get you to the general area.  But I wonder if you’re aware of what you’re getting yourself into.”

“Believe me, pal, I’m well aware.  Just point me in the right direction.”

“Very well.  Behind this building is a forest that leads to the river.  Once you get to the shoreline, follow the river South.”

“That’s it?” Sam asked after an awkward pause.

“Pretty much, yeah.”

“How will I know where to find it?”

“Well, son, if you’ve got blood on your hands, Aceldama will find you.”

Sam whirled around.  “What does that mean?”

The old man was nowhere in sight but Sam nearly jumped out of his skin as the man’s voice suddenly boomed from behind: “If you do make it there, you’ll likely wish you never had.”

Sam twisted around toward the source of the voice, finding nothing but empty air.  “Hello? …  Hello?”

The only reply was silence.  After taking a last look around, Sam began to walk toward the back of the saloon and the forest beyond.

 IV

 By the time he reached the forest, the last sliver of daylight had given way to night.  A normal human would have been completely lost in the darkness, but fortunately for Sam, he was anything but normal.  He followed a path that appeared to head generally west toward the river.  The stagnant blackness of the thick forest was periodically interrupted by intermittent shards of pale moonlight.  The cricket-dominated sounds of night creatures flooded the air as Sam trudged along the path, his Nike sneakers crunching the leaves and twigs that lined the ground.  He heard the occasional rustling of foliage as various animals scurried around him, never crossing his path—the creatures kept their distance.

The density of the forest increased as the songs of its cricket population reached deafening decibels.  Loose debris, disturbed by the wind’s acceleration, swirled around, occasionally hitting Sam in the face.  He wondered how such a fierce wind could penetrate this deeply into the woods—it wasn’t natural—then again, nothing about this place was particularly natural.  Perhaps, he supposed, it meant he was closing in on Aceldama.

The night soon grew just as cold as the day had been hot, as if some weather god had just flipped a switch.  His summer clothing provided inefficient protection from the rapidly decreasing temperature, so Sam picked up his pace to a slow jog.  He ran for what seemed like an eternity, realizing in the process that he had seriously misjudged his proximity to the river.  Finally, he burst through the edge of the forest—and immediately tumbled down a steep embankment.  His right shoulder landed with a thud on a narrow beach, the rest of his body following suit, leaving him prone and staring up at the starless sky.  He lay there for a few minutes trying to recapture the air that had been knocked from his lungs.

The howling wind hammered the trees, sending giant branches flying in every direction.  Dirt and debris flew into the air, coalescing into a brown funnel cloud that moved over the water.  Enormous waves sprang from the river and beat ferociously against the shore.  Sam had never seen anything like it.  He felt as if he were on the shore of an ocean in the midst of a storm rather than an inland river in Mississippi.  He rose unsteadily to his feet, barely able to stand against the violent wind, and began walking south, the river raging to his right.  The crickets seemed to be battling the wind and river for audio supremacy.  Eventually, the clashing sounds blended into a white noise that pierced Sam’s ears to the point where he thought his eardrums would burst.

Then it all stopped.

The sudden silence caught Sam off-guard and he nearly tripped to the ground as his body continued to push against a wind that was no longer there.  The river stood as calm as if the last few minutes had never happened; not even a ripple penetrated its still surface.  The crickets had vanished. In fact, Sam could not hear a single sound coming from the forest.  He looked around and around, confounded by yet another unnatural shift in the environment, but thankful for the relief (his ears rang louder than the time he had sat near a mammoth speaker for three hours at a Bruce Springsteen concert).

The calm, however, did not last long.  A high-pitched noise soon emanated from the middle of the river.  What initially sounded to Sam like wind morphed into millions of screaming voices almost singing in a harsh dissonance that reminded him of the “Jupiter and Beyond the Infinite” sequence from Kubrick’s 2001.  The voices grew louder as they approached Sam’s position, washing over him in an aural tidal wave.  He covered his ears in a useless attempt to dampen the sound.  He shuddered as goose bumps broke out all over his flesh.

Then a blinding flash of light materialized over the water and expanded into a long, bright-red beam rising perpendicular to the ground.  Hundreds of beams proceeded to bisect the first beam from every angle.  The entire luminescent structure began rotating faster and faster until it became a single perfect circle, glowing with every color of the visible spectrum.  Sam suddenly found himself dragged toward the center of the entity as he shielded his eyes from its brilliance.  He knew this was likely the doorway to Aceldama, but his first instinct was to resist the forces pulling on his body.  The struggle, however, proved futile as the tremendous force generated by the portal lifted him off the ground and sucked him in.

Sam ultimately surrendered, allowing the portal to take him wherever it might.  Looking around, he saw nothing but multi-colored light surrounding him on all sides, and he thought once again of the wormhole sequence from 2001.  He continued to float in mid-air, slowly rotating head over heels as he traveled through the strange formation.  Visions of his past began flashing in front of him.  Soon every image, sound, smell, and feeling that Sam had ever experienced attacked his senses at a furiously random pace.  Having no idea how long he would be in this state of transition, Sam took a deep breath and began to concentrate on the stimuli before him.  He discovered that with a little patience, he could actually bring some order to the sights and sounds weaving in and out of his consciousness.  So he embraced the images, clinging to the distant memories of his past life for perhaps the last time.

He knew that once he reached the other side his life would never be the same.  But then Sam had grown accustomed to change—his life had abandoned any sense of normality and stability a long, long time ago.

-end of excerpt-

Dubrovnik: A Tour of King’s Landing (and other locations)

When I visited the medieval walled city of Dubrovnik, Croatia in November of 2011, I had no idea that one of my favorite television shows, Game of Thrones, had just recently finished filming its second season there. When the season premiere aired four months later, I realized that Dubrovnik had been used to depict King’s Landing (though I also recognized a few other parts of the city in other scenes, such as those in Qarth).

The strange sensation of seeing the city walls I had so recently walked and photographed being used to represent this fantasy world led to some occasional difficulty suspending disbelief, but I nevertheless thought it was quite cool to have actually stood in the same locations as the characters in the show.

I will write much more about my visit to the magnificent city of Dubrovnik in my travelogue, but for now I thought I would just share some of my photos that match up with locations from the television series (based on my foggy memory from seeing Season 2 nearly a year ago).  Very minor spoilers ahead for those who haven’t watched the second season . . .

A CGI-enhanced version of this city line stands in for King’s Landing in the show.
The island in the background was used for some of the scenes with Daenerys in Qarth.
Streets of Dubrovnik, err, I mean King’s Landing.
This area was used for some external King’s Landing scenes.
The tower to the right was used to depict the
outside of the House of the Undying in Qarth.
Daenerys walked along this area before entering.
You can see why Dubrovnik makes such a perfect shooting location for a fantasy show.
Many scenes were filmed along these walls that surround the entire city.
This angle is similar to one used in the show, with
a CGI-enhanced version of the fort in the background.
The fort itself was heavily used for King’s Landing exterior scenes.
These hobbit-like doors built into the hill underneath the fort were featured during
the montage in which Joffrey had all of King Robert’s bastard sons murdered.
The interior of the fort was used for several scenes in and around the castle.
Another interior fort shot. Cersei and Littlefinger had a conversation in this hall.
This fort courtyard was frequently used.
This upper level of the fort was one of the main exterior filming locations for King’s Landing.
The fact that the background is all water and sky probably made the fort the easiest
location to use in terms of not needing to hide a bunch of stuff or crop it out with CGI.
A closer look at the island that stood in for Qarth (i.e., the Daenerys scenes).
The area among the trees down by the water was also used for a few King’s Landing scenes.

I’m sure there were several other areas used for filming that I’m not recalling at the moment, but I don’t feel like re-watching the entire season right now to find them :-), so I’ll just leave you with one final long-exposure night shot that feels a bit like a fantasy photo with the smoothness of the water:

See more photos from Dubrovnik

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The Inca Trail Day 4: Arrival at Machu Picchu (My Trip to Peru, Part 7)

Flash forward: my final destination.

At long last, the day had arrived to make the final trek to Machu Picchu. We awoke around 3:30 am to get in line with the other groups for admission into the final stretch of the trail. This turned out to be quite a long wait, but eventually we were on our way.

As usual, the younger members of the group raced off ahead, leaving me behind with Uncle Kipp and our guide Alex. However, unlike previous days, I was feeling good from the start of the hike, so I raced off ahead by myself (carrying my own backpack for a change), eager to make it to the Sun Gate (Intipunku) by sunrise.

I didn’t take any pictures during this stretch of the hike, opting instead to leave my camera in its case so that I could concentrate on reaching the Sun Gate as quickly as possible. The hike turned out to be a bit longer than the roughly hour or so I was expecting, but I’m sure the faster hikers made it to the Sun Gate within that time frame. However, I did a much better job of keeping up on this day, so I was usually among other hikers, either passing them or being passed by them.

I eventually came to a set of narrow stone stairs so vertically inclined that ascending them was almost like climbing a wall. It was such a difficult climb, in fact, that the guides referred to it as the “Gringo Killer” and there was a logjam of hikers waiting to climb it. Some people hollered in triumph when they reached the top, which led me to believe that this was the end of the trail and that the Sun Gate awaited me at the top, so when my turn came to climb, I went all in, rapidly climbing on all fours like a monkey, making it to the top in record time.

I looked around. No Sun Gate. No Machu Picchu. Doh!

I still had about another 20-30 minutes to hike and I had just expended all of my energy and muscle reserves racing up the Gringo Killer. Additionally, I started noticing a pain in my shin that worsened with each step. It felt like a stress fracture or shin splints or something. Although it was probably the result of the cumulative effect of walking/running and climbing/descending on stone steps for three days, there’s no doubt that the Gringo Killer was the final nail in the coffin. Had I taken my time with it instead of flying up like a bat out of hell, I might have saved myself a lot of pain.

Anyway, I hiked the last stretch of the trail and finally arrived at the Sun Gate, where I got my first spectacular view of Machu Picchu.

My view after emerging through the Sun Gate.
The winding road going down the mountain is where the buses bring the non-hiker tourists.

When you stand here you are seeing Machu Picchu and the surrounding mountains as the Incas did when they emerged through the Sun Gate all those centuries ago. This is the view that the bus tourists never see unless they make the hour-long trek up to this spot. As it turned out, I didn’t reach the gate by sunrise but it wouldn’t have mattered anyway because the sky was overcast all day, which unfortunately resulted in some dulled photos, though I was still able to get some nice ones. However, in my excitement over finally gazing down on Machu Picchu, I neglected to take any of the Sun Gate itself.

Zoomed in view of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate.

Shortly after arriving I encountered the guys from Argentina and we exchanged some high-fives. I then walked down a bit from the Sun Gate and found a quiet rock overlooking the trail, where I sat down to eat breakfast while enjoying the pristine view and basking in the feeling of being at the top of the world in the middle of nowhere.

Although I still had another 45 minutes of hiking before I would actually get to Machu Picchu, this moment really felt like the end, the culmination of my four-day struggle. Everything I had gone through had been worth it just to be sitting here.

Not a bad breakfast view.

About 20 minutes later Uncle Kipp and Alex arrived.

We did it!

After a few more moments of relaxing it was time to make the final trek down to Machu Picchu.

A view along the trail down from the Sun Gate.

When we finally arrived, we waited in line to get the classic photo taken.

The classic postcard photo.

We then had to actually leave the park, meet up with the rest of the group, and then re-enter. On our way down we began to pass all of the bus tourists entering the park. I couldn’t help viewing them a bit like intruders, like “How dare you enter this sacred citadel that we have expended so much of our blood, sweat, and tears to reach? Be gone!” Or maybe I was just jealous that they looked so clean, well-dressed, and rested in comparison to us. 🙂

After hooking up with the rest of the group (and sadly abandoning my trusty walking stick, which was not allowed back in the park) we re-entered and followed our guide Freddy on a roughly two-hour tour. Rather than detail what I saw on the tour I’ll just let a few of the pictures I took speak for themselves.

The Temple of the Sun.

My leg pain had gotten progressively worse as we toured Machu Picchu. By the end of the tour I could barely put any weight on it, so when Freddy asked which of us wanted to climb to the top of Huayna Picchu (the taller mountain that looms over Machu Picchu) there was no question that I would be opting out of that excursion. Everyone in the group except for Uncle Kipp and me went on the climb.

We still had about two hours left to explore more of Machu Picchu before we needed to leave, but since I could barely walk, we decided to leave early and head down to the city of Aguas Calientes. We had seen most of the major points of interest during the tour, but there was much more we could have seen (such as the view from the guard house), so having to leave early was a major regret.

We took the 20-minute bus ride down to Aguas Calientes, a town that gives you a taste of both the beautiful (being surrounded by majestic mountains) and the tacky (the touristy shops and restaurants). The pictures below are a couple of panoramas I took with my cell phone, so they’re a bit messed up due to the quality of the cell phone software, but they give you an idea of what the town looks like.

Aguas Calientes
The main town square.

The portion of the Urubamba River that runs through town is filled with giant boulders like these:

The Urubamba

We headed to the restaurant where our group would be meeting. Uncle Kipp and I got there first since the rest of the group was still climbing Huayna Picchu. Alex had one of the waitresses show us to a locked room upstairs where we could access our large duffels, which had been carried here by our porters, once again proving what a great decision it had been to hire personal porters. It was a huge relief not to have to lug those massive things through the last part of the Inca Trail, up the Gringo Killer, and all day through Machu Picchu. Overall, I was very pleased with the Dos Manos tour company—they had everything down to a science. Even when I realized that I had left my train ticket back at my hotel in Cusco, they were able to easily secure me a new one, and the various drop-offs and pickups to get us home ran smoothly as well, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

Since we had some free time while waiting for the rest of the group, we decided to try the town’s hot springs. Alex joined us and showed us the way. Unfortunately for my injured leg, it was a very painful, 15-minute uphill walk. We eventually got there and jumped into the hottest pool they had. Words cannot describe the glorious feeling of sitting in that hot spring after four days of relentless physical exertion. We relaxed and enjoyed some cocktails that had been delivered to us at poolside.

The pools are all fed by real hot springs.
The bottoms consist of gravelly sand.

Later we returned to the restaurant and joined the rest of the group for our farewell lunch. After lunch we said goodbye to Freddy and Alex, who were getting an early train home, and tipped them very generously for everything they had done for us–they truly went above and beyond. Alex, in particular, had been like my guardian angel during my struggles on Days 2 and 3. Here are a couple of photos in tribute to our intrepid guides:

Freddy
Alex (center)
Super Alex taking off for flight.

We then said our goodbyes to the rest of the group and exchanged contact info. Here’s a shot of the group from the previous night enjoying our final dinner on the Inca Trail.

Our Fellowship (minus the Elves and Hobbits).

So after four days of living among a group, it was down to just Uncle Kipp and me. We had a few hours to kill before our train left that evening so we walked around town, had some ice cream, did some shopping, etc. Finally we got the train back to Ollantaytambo, where we transferred to a bus back to Cusco. The bus dropped us off in a square in the middle of town and for a minute I thought I was going to have to walk uphill to my hotel carrying all of that luggage on my bum leg, but the bus driver hailed a cab, gave him some money, and instructed him to take us to our hotels. I said goodbye to Uncle Kipp after the cab dropped me off and then checked back in to the Hotel Rumi Punku. Finally, at around 11:30 pm, I walked through the door of my room and, just as promised, found the luggage I had left behind with the hotel waiting for me.

After unwinding and unpacking I collapsed into bed and slept until noon the next day—longer than I had slept in the previous few days combined. I decided to treat myself by renting out the hotel spa, complete with jacuzzi and sauna—I’d earned it. Between the hot springs and the spa, my leg, while still sore, was starting to feel better. I dropped off my rented sleeping bag and duffel at the Dos Manos travel office in the afternoon and then met Uncle Kipp and his friend Yuri that evening for a final dinner. Uncle Kipp was staying for a couple more days to stand as godfather to Yuri’s baby, but I was leaving the next afternoon.

The hotel was nice enough to give me a late checkout to coincide with my afternoon flight without charging me extra. I took a cab to the airport and was soon homeward bound. I won’t detail my misadventures getting home except to say that I will never fly American Airlines again if I can help it. I finally got back to Newark airport the following afternoon and back to home sweet home later that evening. And just like that, my adventure was over.

From the Sacred Valley to the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, it truly was the adventure of a lifetime. I don’t know if I would ever again put myself through four days of roughing it like that, but I’m glad I did it. I challenged myself both physically and mentally in a way many people never will. It is an accomplishment I will always look back on with fondness and pride.

 

More Photos from Machu Pichu

More Photos and Videos from My Entire Peru Trip

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